Up early and off down the road to find some civilisation. Found a great little shop and the young guy behind the counter spoke English! Breakfast of champions that morning, took it all back and we feasted again. Next thing we know we are taken back to the garage and our trusty steed was ready! 272 Euro later and we were on the road and actually cheering!
Great drive through Czech and Hungary before coming to Macca’s in Szeged. Simple tip for you travellers is that Macca’s has free WIFI almost everywhere. And clean(ish) toilets. It’s interesting how you gravitate towards the familiar even if you don’t eat the food. We had curry! But still used the WIFI. It’s been great so far and we met up with a few teams here. Chatting and laughing and swapping stories. Then off we drove for the Serbian border. This was one of our longer days driving as we were trying to catch up some lost time. But was great to see some familiar faces along the way.
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Ok, a little travel tip for travelling to Serbia: if you stop at the Roadhouse outside of Szeged just 3 km before the border, I hope you have a great time. But as you are leaving you need to take the first left out of the driveway. It was dark and we missed it, finding ourselves on a small country road and drove about 5 km’s looking for somewhere to sleep before deciding to head back to the roadhouse. Next thing we know, and mind you it’s nearly midnight, we are pulled over by the local police. Passports please, where are you going? Apparently that little country road had led us into Serbia and we had almost entered illegally! But the Police laughed it off and laughed a little more at our visa’s and our route. We managed to get back to the roadhouse and headed for the border. Again: Midnight – dozens of cars lined up to enter the country. Trucks and all kinds of people. Bright, brilliant lights and men with guns. Through the checks wasn’t so hard. But they wanted 75 Euro for insurance. And then we worked out it would be similar for the rest of the countries. So after some pricing and stuff we decided it was just too much, and after an hour we left Serbia and headed back into Hungary! So technically we have been to Serbia, I even have a stamp!
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Romania Dam
Another night on the side of the road and we all headed for Romania, and after a little shopping for breaky we aimed for the border. Now this one was easy. About 7 euro and a friendly bunch there. We are finding that the Ambulance is becoming quite the star and people stop and want to know what we are doing, why we are so crazy and can we come along! Romania is a beautiful country, full of green forests and small roads. Oh and of course the outlet stores. We stopped at a massive store in Arad, where I bought some thongs and a Frisbee...and bumped in to another team! Duncan and his guys popped their head in and say Hi! Was great to do a catch up. But let me get on with it. After a three hour vehicular tour of the main road in Adar, we finally left this crazy city and headed for the mountains. The guys received an email about the Transfaragan pass, according to Top Gear the best road in the world, and after a second that was our heading. I mean who wouldn’t want to drive the best road in the world in a Ford Transit?
Let me just throw in about European drivers: we have had so many tips and read so many books about the rules and regulations for the countries we are travelling through. Do this, don’t do this, watch out for the cops. We have travelled from the UK to France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Czech, Slovakia, Serbia (briefly), Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iraq and Iran, and the verdict is in: there are NO RULES. I kid you not the traffic is a free for all. The sheer skill at which the drivers over here simply just miss each other and travel on is astounding. Trucks travel 3 abreast in Iran on major highways and we have seen as many as 5 cars side by side and heading in different directions. Remember my comment on the US about the drivers, it’s a bit like frogger and everyone’s the frog. Well over here the frogs are on speed. How can everyone drive in different directions and there be no accidents. It’s a bit like closing your eyes and hoping for the best. Oh and driving on the wrong side of the road does get easier, so does kissing your sister, and it’s still wrong.
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Transfaragan Pass
We had travelled up one side of the mountain in the dark and woke near a bunch of locals on bikes out on tour. They were very friendly and curious. After our morning toilet break and whores bath we headed off and onto the road built by the gods. This is an extraordinary achievement: high up in a massive mountain range, covered in pines and swept by clouds, we entered a high valley and there it was. Like an old scalelectrix track thrown at the mountain, it wound and twist up the face and onto the distant top. We got out and just stared for a while. It reached up into the mountain and beckoned for our transit to take it on. We just ad to keep stopping and look back at it. So beautiful to look at and exhilarating, even in the ambulance, to ride up. At the top a deep tunnel into the heart of the mountain and onto the other side. And it was almost as good. A wide open blue sky framed by mountains and valleys and gilt by the morning sun. We stopped to chat to some ralliers, laughing at one, sitting high on a cardboard toilet, high on a rock in front of everyone. Apparently he couldn’t go. Must have been the sheep putting him off. Like a massive centipede climbing the mountain in the distance, hundreds of sheep, perched on the cliffs and mountain, thousands of feet of the ground and holding on by a hoof. I wouldn’t be able to go either. On down the mountain I drifted into a snooze, I am 40 you know, to be woken at a huge dam guarded by Megatron. Well this large metal statue, built and commissioned during the reign of communism, was apparently a secret project for power in the area. Some friendly locals and wonderful views.
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Onto the Bulgarian border and a ferry across the Blue Danube. It aint blue, looking like coffee grounds in the river and not smelling too good either. Even the ferry was a little suspicious, looking mostly like a plank of wood with a couple of fishing boats to push it along. A large hairy Bulgarian helped (ripped us off) with some money exchange and away we went, completely surprised by the smooth ride across to the Bulgarian Border. And this wasn’t much of a hassle, just a simple look at the passports and a wave through. We all commented on the simple and plain countryside in this part of Bulgaria. Past endless rows of Sunflowers hanging their heads and looking for the oncoming morning.
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We had a tip off that there may be a group or ten at the Beachside town of Sunny beach. So we drove through and made our way there. Past hills and more boring towns we looked forward to the small beachside fun of a swim and a catch up. What we found was a riot of lights, colours, strippers and parties. This massive is somewhere between Surfers Paradise and Las Vegas, a crazy mix of tourists and locals with one thing on their mind. PARTY. It was a pretty funny night, even though we got there late. The boys bought a massive cocktail and we drank it while watching bored strippers dance around for money. Actually one little thing happened: when we first got there we kind of took a wrong turn and ended up driving along the boardwalk next to the beach. Must have been interesting for the locals on the people only area! But I think the Ambulance sign gave people some patience as we squeakingly did a 3 point turn and headed back the other way. We had a great night and woke to a small refreshing swim in a pool and our first real shower in a couple of days. Lucky we get along huh?
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A quick run to the Turkish Border an there we were heading for Istanbul! I’ll be trying to keep up with my writing but can’t promise too much as internet access is limited here in Tehran. I have so much to tell you about the last 3 countries and can’t wait to fill you in and maybe change your views on the Middle East. It has been an amazing trip so far and I look forward to getting you up to date soon... Oh and we broke down again!!
Miss you all!
